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Muriwai beach: a photographer's guide

·4 mins
Location scout Landscape Nature

This was one of the most-visited threads on the old Hellophoto forum, and we’ve rewritten it from scratch as a fresh location guide.

Muriwai is about as west coast as Auckland gets: a long run of black iron sand, big Tasman surf, wind that never quite stops, and a headland covered in nesting gannets. It sits within Muriwai Regional Park, managed by Auckland Council.

The gannet colony

The headline act is the colony of Australasian gannets, takapu, on Ōtakamiro Point at the southern end of the beach and the rock stacks just offshore, including Motutara Island. Paths lead from the main beach car park up to viewing areas on the clifftop, close enough to watch birds landing, squabbling and preening a few metres away.

When to go

The birds start returning in late winter, and the colony is busiest from spring through summer. Eggs arrive around spring, fluffy chicks follow, and by late summer the young birds are getting ready for their first flight across the Tasman. Visit in late autumn or early winter and the cliffs can be close to empty.

Track and platform changes

The tracks and viewing areas around the headland have had closures, repairs and upgrades in recent years, including work after the 2023 storms and changes to give the growing colony more room. Some routes may be shut or only open at certain times. Check the latest on Auckland Council’s park pages before you drive out.

Shooting the gannets

  • A telephoto in the 200 to 400mm range is ideal for portraits and courtship displays. You’ll get pleasing shots with less, because the birds are close.
  • For birds in flight, use a fast shutter speed (1/2000 or quicker), continuous autofocus and burst mode. Gannets ride the updraft along the cliff edge, so you can pan with them as they hang in the wind.
  • Overcast days are kind to white plumage. In hard sun, underexpose slightly so you don’t blow out the feathers.

Respect the colony

Stay behind the fences and on the formed paths. The cliffs are unstable and the gannets are protected wildlife. Drones in Auckland’s regional parks need permission, and flying near the colony stresses the birds, so leave it in the bag. No playback calls, and no leaning over barriers for a better angle. If you bring a dog, check the council’s dog rules for the park first. If a bird is reacting to you, you’re too close.

Black sand and big skies

Away from the birds, the beach itself is a gift. The dark sand turns into a mirror when a wave washes back, reflecting sunset colour and silhouettes. Try a low angle with a wide lens just above the wet sand, and time your shot as the water drains away.

Slow shutter speeds (half a second to a few seconds) turn the surf into soft streaks, while fast speeds freeze spray off the breakers. A polariser can cut glare off wet sand or deepen the sky, and an ND filter helps with long exposures before sunset. Our polariser and ND filter guide covers how to use them without overdoing it.

Sunset and tides

Muriwai faces west, so sunset is the natural time to be there, and the light can stay good for a while after the sun drops into the sea. Check tide times: a falling tide leaves wide, shiny sand that’s perfect for reflections, and a high tide can push you up against the dunes. Wind and swell matter as much as cloud, so look at the MetService marine forecast before you go.

West coast surf: take it seriously

Muriwai is a beautiful but dangerous beach. Rips form and shift, and big sets can surge much further up the sand than you’d expect, especially around rocks.

  • Never turn your back on the sea when you’re shooting near the waterline.
  • Stay off rocks and ledges in a big swell, and watch for waves washing round the base of the headland.
  • If you’re swimming, do it between the flags on a patrolled day. Surf Life Saving New Zealand has good guidance on spotting rips.
  • Keep camera bags well back from the wash. Salt water and iron sand are brutal on gear, so wipe everything down afterwards.

Te Henga (Bethells Beach) as an alternative

If Muriwai is busy, or the colony tracks are closed, Te Henga / Bethells Beach to the south is another black-sand west coast beach with a very different feel. It’s smaller and wilder, with dunes, rocky outcrops and the Waitākere River meeting the sea. A walk inland leads to Lake Wainamu and its big sand dunes, which are great for abstract shapes in low light. Parking and phone coverage are limited, so plan ahead, and the surf there is just as dangerous.

Pack a telephoto for the birds, a wide lens for the beach and a cloth for spray, and take your rubbish home.